Bumthang

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Bumthang is the most religious and spiritual heartland of the nation, with an attitude between 2,600 metres to 4,500 metres above sea level. According to legends, Guru Padmasambhava cured the local King Sinda Raja of the spirit-induced ailment in the 8th century. This resulted in King embracing Buddhism, and eventually the whole country.

Buddhist saint Pema Lingpa was born in this region, an ancestor of the royal family. He was a blacksmith who was led by mystic forces to discover spiritual treasures placed at the bottom of Mebar Tsho, or Lake of Burning Fire, in the 15th century. According to legend, he held a butter lamp in his hand and jumped into the lake. He remained in the water for a long time. When he emerged from the lake, he was holding a chest and a scroll of paper in one hand. At the same time, the butter lamp held in his hand was still burning bright.

When Pema Lingpa was preaching the knowledge contained in the treasures, flowers dropped from the sky and vanished into rays of light. Hence, Bhutanese regards this lake to be scared. On auspicious days, Bhutanese will visit this lake to make butter lamp offerings on this fresh water lake.

Many famous Buddhist yogis had lived and practiced here. Hence, Bumthang is also the home to some of its oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries.

The administrative place of the capital of Bumthang is Jakar Dzong, which dominates the Chamkhar valley. It was built by Drukpa Lama Ngagi Wangchuk in 1549. He saw a white bird landing on the site of the Dzong when he was looking for a place to build a temple. Considered a good omen, he built the Dzong and named it as the Fortress of the White Bird. Situated on a strategic summit, it is one of the most exquisite architecture in Bhutan.

A special feature of the Dzong is the approximately 50 metres high Central tower, which is very distinctive from other Dzongs. Another unique feature of the Dzong is the sheltered water passage that supply water to the fortress. The Bumthang Tshechu held at Jakar Dzong (usually at night) is popular as it is said to bring fertility to any women who want a child.

The Jambay Lhakhang is one of the 108 monasteries built by King Sontsen Geonpo in the 8th century to subdue evil spirits in the Himalayan region. In autumn, it will host one of the most spectacular festivals (Jambay Lhakhang Drup). This festival is held to commemorate the establishment of Jambay Lhakhang and to honor Guru Padmasambhava.

The highlight of this festival is a religious dance (Tercham or naked dance) around the fire in the mid of the night. This dance is a renowned item among the spectators. Exactly at midnight, sixteen naked men will sprint out of the monastery’s door, dancing to the beatings of the traditional drums and cymbals. The dancers are completely naked with their faces covered with white cloths and masks.

According to legends, this dance was introduced by the great treasure discoverer, Tertoen Dorji Lingpa, on the prophecy of Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century. To distract the demons that were hindering the construction of a monastery, Tertoen Dorji Lingpa launched this sacred dance and subdued the demons. Today, it is held to bless infertile women with children and for abundant crops in the New Year.

Located further along the valley, Kurje Lhakhang comprises of 3 temples. The one on the right was built in 1652 against the rock face where Guru Padmasambhava meditated in the 8th century. The middle temple is built on the site of a cave containing a rock with the imprint of Guru’s body, by King Ugyen Wangchuck in 1900 when he was still the Trongsa Penlop. The 3rd temple on the left was built in 1990s by H.M. Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck, Grand-Queen Mother. The 3 temples are surrounded by a 108 chorten wall, which make Kurje Lhakhang extremely sacred.

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• • Tamshing Lhakhang located across the river of Kurje Lhakhang. This temple was found in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa, a re-incarnation of Guru Padmasambhava. The Monastery contains remarkable paintings of this period of the Himalaya which was restored at the end of the 19th century. They constitute a unique documentation of Pema Lingpa’s teachings. This place has a charming and peaceful atmosphere which has enchanted many visitors.

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• Thangbi Goemba a monastery situated in the middle of a wide fertile plateau, overlooking the river. Founded in 1470 by the 4th Shamar Rinpoche (Chokki Drakpa), an important lama of the Karma Kagyupa religious school, the building comprises 2 sanctuaries and a temple of terrifying deities. The sanctuary on the ground floor contains statues of the past, present and future Buddhas. On the upper floor, it contains 2 remarkable paintings of Guru Padmasambhava’s and the Buddha Amitabha’s heaven.
• Yathra Weaving Centre In the village of Zungney in Chumey, women are weaving Bumthang’s famous wool fabric called Bumthang yathra. One can see the brightly colour wool fabric displayed outside houses.
• Ugyen Chholing Palace and Ugyen Chholing Museum situated in Tang Valley. This palace was originally built by Deb Tsokye Dorje, a descendant of Dorje Lingpa in the 16th century. The present structure was rebuilt after the earthquake in 1897. The complex has been turned into a museum for religious studies, research and solitude. It also has displays and descriptions of the lifestyle and art works of a Bhutanese noble family.
• Ura Valley 48 km from Jakar. It is the highest valley in Bhutan at an attitude of 3,100 metres above sea level. The highest peak in Bhutan, Gangkhar Puensum, is also found in Ura Valley at an attitude of 7,541 metres above sea level. Villages in Ura valley have clustered houses, which is quite unusual in Bhutan. Above Ura Village, there is a new temple built in 1986, dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava. It contains a huge statue of Guru and remarkable wall paintings of his teachings. On the streets, you may find elderly women wearing sheepskin shawls on their backs, which double as a blanket and cushion.